Chicken Salad Tlayudita

Inspired by the outstanding chicken tostadas we grew up with in Southern California, our Chicken Salad Tlayuditas are basically a tlayuda-style, refrito-spread masa base topped with a chicken salad that includes either Pico de Gallo or juicy diced tomatoes. It’s one of our favorite lunches in the world.

Tlayuditas, which we wrote about in a July 2021 story about heirloom masa harina, are a spin on the Oaxacan treat called a tlayuda — a platter-sized corn tortilla griddled till it’s crispy-chewy, then spread with refried black beans and topped with meats, cheese and other enhancements. To make a legit tlayuda, you’d need a tlayuda press, which is like an oversized tortilla press — something most home cooks do not have. (Though you could buy one if you’re deep-pocketed and dedicated to making full-sized tlayudas.) Our solution is the mini-tlayuda, or tlayudita.

To make one, use a standard tortilla press and make a slightly larger tortilla — about 18 cm/7 inches diameter or so. Cook it on a comal or griddle past the point where you’d normally take it off, then spread it with refried beans while it’s still on the comal and finish cooking. That’s your base.

We’re also taking a liberty with the beans. In its Oaxacan home, a tlayuda would usually be spread with refried frijoles negros — black beans. We go that route when we’re in possession of cooked black beans, but more often we simmer up a batch of much-quicker-cooking mayacobas, bayo beans or mantequilla beans, which are often ready to turn into refritos (refried beans) in about an hour (though sometimes longer).

When making more than one, I usually make them up to the point of spreading the beans, then set them aside until I have two, three or four spread with beans. They I quickly reheat the first ones on the comal and dress them all, so they’re all ready at the same time.

Note: To prepare masa using Masienda masa harina (blue, white or red), stir together equal parts masa harina and water in a bowl until combined, then knead it quickly with your hands. The resulting dough should stick to your fingers a little, but not much. For tlayudas, tlayuditas and tostadas — which you do not want to puff — the dough can be a little drier than for tortillas, which are intended to puff when cooked on the comal. For one 7-inch tlayudita, use 3 tablespoons (32 g/1.2 oz) masa harina and 3 tablespoons water — that yields about 70 g /2.5 ounces of masa, to make a 5 centimeter/2-inch ball.

Of course, nothing beats masa made from freshly nixtamalized heirloom corn — which depending on where you live may be more and more available in the near future. For now, purchase it at Bolita in the San Francisco Bay area, For All Things Good in Brooklyn, NY, and perhaps unbeknownst to us at a molino near you. (Do let us know!)

Makes 1 tlayudita.

Ingredients

70 g/2.5 oz. masa (either prepared from Masienda masa harina according to the instructions above, or purchased from a molino)

1/3 cup warm refried beans

1 handful tender salad greens (such as spring mix)

55 to 70 g./2 to 2.5 oz. shredded cooked chicken (about 1/3 chicken breast, or use dark meat, or a combo)

1/2 ripe avocado, diced, lime squeezed over and lightly salted

1 ounce queso fresco, crumbled

2 sliced radishes (optional)

1/4 large or 1/2 small tomato, diced (including any juices) or 3 tablespoons Pico de Gallo

1 tablespoon cilantro leaves (may be omitted if using pico de gallo rather than diced tomato)

lime wedge for garnish

Salsa for serving (optional)

Instructions

1. Heat a comal or griddle on medium-high heat. Make sure the masa is the right texture. If it is too dry, sprinkle with water; if it’s too wet, sprinkle on a little masa harina and knead till smooth. Roll into a ball — it should be about 5 centimeters/2 inches. Line a tortilla press with plastic on both sides and press the ball into a thin circle; rotate the plastic-lined dough 180 degrees and press again.

2. Peel off the top plastic, invert the dough circle carefully onto your open palm, and then transfer it to the heated comal. Let it cook 15 to 30 seconds, until the edges lift up from the comal a bit. Use a spatula to flip it over, and cook another 30 - 45 seconds. Flip it once more, spread the refried beans evenly on top and let it finish cooking another 60 seconds or so, until the base is crisp yet pliable. Use a spatula to transfer it to a plate.

3. Arrange the salad greens on top of the beans, followed by the chicken, avocado, queso fresco, radishes (if using), diced tomato and cilantro or pico de gallo. Serve with a lime wedge, and (if desired) salsa to drizzle over.

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