Win Son’s Lamb Wontons

These unusual wontons — filled with gingery, garlicky, chivey (or scalliony) lamb — come from Win Son Presents a Taiwanese American Cookbook. They’re set on a smear of labneh, and drizzled with all kinds of fun stuff: cumin seeds, chile oil, sweet soy dipping sauce, cilantro leaves and a “lamb” spice mix care of Win Son, the beloved Brooklyn restaurant that birthed the book. The wontons are not just delicious; they’re also fun to make.

READ: “Taiwanese and Taiwanese American culinary traditions shine in three exciting cookbooks”

READ: ‘Win Son Presents a Taiwanese American Cookbook’ is featured in our 2022 Ultimate Cookbook Gift Guide

Even if you skip the ingredients that are sub-recipes (the spice mix and the dipping sauce), or even the labneh, it’s still wonderful. — just drizzle with chile oil (or chili crisp) and scatter on some cilantro and cumin seeds. Or you might want to use labneh, but not as much as called for in the recipe; the photograph in the book shows a much thinner layer. It’s good both ways.

Note that the wonton filling needs to marinate overnight, and can stay in the refrigerator for up to 2 days — so you’ll need to start this at least the day before you want to serve it. The wontons need to be cooked soon after making them, so if you want to make them in advance, do so and freeze them. They can be boiled while still frozen.

We tested the recipe using gochugaru, Shaoxing rice wine, scallions and chili crisp, and the Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce using Taiwanese soy paste.

Makes about 60 (or more) wontons. Serves 4 as a main course or 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

Ingredients

1 pound / 455 grams ground lamb

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon grated garlic

2 teaspoons red chile flakes, such as gochugaru or Sichuan chile flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons rice wine, preferably Taiwanese, or use Shaoxing rice wine as a substitute

1 heaping cup / 45 grams packed flat chives or 4 large scallions, chopped

1 pack square yellow wonton wrappers (about 60)

1 cup / 240 ml labneh

1/2 cup / 120 ml Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce (see recipe below)

Chile oil or chili crisp for finishing (optional)

2 teaspoons cumin seeds, for dusting (optional)

“Lamb” Spice Mix for finishing and serving (optional, see recipe below)

A small handful of cilantro leaves and tender stems (optional)

Instructions

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ginger, garlic, chile flakes, salt, sesame seeds, sesame oil, soy sauce, rice wine and chives or scallions. Add the lamb and fold it all together; do not overmix. Cover and let it marinate in the refrigerator overnight, or for up to 2 days.

2. Lightly flour a sheet pan. To make a wonton, place a wonton in a diamond shape on your palm or on a work surface. Place about 1 teaspoon of the filling horizontally along the lower half of the wrapper. Dip your finger in water and trace the sides of the wrapper to wet it. Fold the bottom edge up to make a triangle, and seal the edges securely. Wet the corners of the bottoms of the triangle, pull them together to meet, and pinch them together to seal. Place it on the floured sheet pan. Repeat with the rest of the filling and wrappers. (Note: The wontons may be frozen at this point.)

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop in the wontons in batches, so as not to overcrowd them. In a large, wide pot you should be able to boil about half of them. Cook for about 6 minutes, at which point the skins will be translucent. Carefully remove the wontons with a slotted spoon or spider and transfer to a bowl.

4. Using the back of a spoon, spread the labneh on a platter to serve family-style. Arrange the boiled wontons on top. Drizzle the wontons with the Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce, plus a little chile oil or chili crisp (if using). Sprinkle with the cumin seeds, if desired, and/or a little of the “Lamb” Spice Mix. Pass the rest of the “Lamb” Spice Mix at the table.

Sweet Soy Dipping Sauce

Makes 1/2 cup / 120 ml, exactly enough for the wontons. Double or triple the recipe if you’d like more; it keeps, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 2 weeks. It’s the sauce served at Win Son with scallion pancakes.

Ingredients

40 ml / 1 1/2 ounces oyster sauce

20 ml / 3/4 ounce kecap manis or Taiwanese soy paste

20 ml / 3/4 ounce chile oil or chili crisp

2 teaspoons mirin

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar

20 ml / 3/4 ounce neutral oil, such as canola or peanut

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk together the oyster sauce, kecap manis (or Taiwanese soy paste), chile oil or chili crisp, mirin, soy sauce and vinegar. Whisk in the neutral oil to emulsify. Taste and adjust seasoning.

“Lamb” Spice Mix

Makes enough for the wontons. Sprinkle a little on top, and pass the rest at the table. Dried limes are available in Middle Eastern markets, or online. If you happen to have black lime powder (Burlap & Barrel makes one), you can use that rather than grinding your own from a dried lime. However, dried limes lose their volatile oil soon after grinding, so it’s really best to grind your own.

Ingredients

1 dried lime

1/4 teaspoon ground green Sichuan peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

Pinch of ground white pepper

Instructions

1. Cut the dried lime in half, remove any seeds, break it into pieces and grind it to a powder in a spice grinder, or in a mortar with a pestle. Measure 1/2 teaspoon of it (reserving the rest for another use), and put it in a small bowl. Add the ground Sichuan peppercorns, cumin, cinnamon, cayenne pepper, Chinese five-spice powder and white pepper, and stir to combine.

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