Guacamole, the Traditional Way

Using a molcajete – a rustic Mexican mortar and pestle – to grind onions, chiles and cilantro to a paste results in guacamole with superb, deep flavor. It’s a lesson I learned early on, from Diana Kennedy’s seminal cookbook The Cuisines of Mexico, from which this recipe is loosely adapted. This recipe uses the same ingredients as Kennedy’s, but in different proportions, and this one’s a bit smoother. Unlike Kennedy, I like to remove the seeds from the serrano chiles so you get their flavor, but not all that heat. If you like it a little hotter, leave some or all of them in.

Want to make the guacamole ahead? Don't – it's best eaten right away. But if you seed and chop the serranos and chop the white onion and tomato in advance, you've done most of the work. Just before serving, chop the cilantro and proceed with the fun.

Makes about 2 cups.