Perfect Creamed Spinach

This dreamy creamed spinach, which we wrote about in February 2021, is as gloriously lush as one made with cream, but it eats lighter, and the beautiful spinach flavor shines through more than it would with heavier versions.

It also has a beautiful symmetry: One pound of spinach, two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, a third cup of chopped white onion, one cup of milk, a quarter teaspoon of salt. Freshly ground white pepper and grated nutmeg to taste.

You can make it up to half an hour or so in advance, then give it a quick reheat in the pan before serving, so it’s practical, as well. It’s a delicious accompaniment to just about any kind of chop or steak, roast chicken or lamb (maybe a grilled butterflied leg of lamb!), simple pan-seared fish or Frenchy fish dishes like sole à la meunière. If I were home alone, I’d eat an extra-generous serving with some brown rice or a roasted sweet potato and call that dinner.

Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients

1 pound baby spinach

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/3 cup small-diced white onion

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

1/4 teaspoons salt

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

Freshly ground white pepper

Instructions

1. Fill a large saucepan with about two inches of salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat boil. Add the spinach, cover the pot and cook without stirring much, until the spinach is all wilted, about five minutes. Drain the spinach in a colander, shaking to remove the water. Let it drain a couple minutes more, then chop it medium-fine (it’s nice if it has a bit of texture). Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a skillet, add the onion and cook over medium-low heat until it is soft and translucent, about 6 or 7 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the onions and stir with a wooden spoon. Cook about 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the flour starts to turn golden. Turn the heat to medium-high, and slowly whisk in the milk. Cook, whisking often, until the béchamel has thickened, about 3 to five minutes. Whisk in the salt, a nice grating of nutmeg and about 10 grinds of white pepper.

3. Stir in the spinach, combining well without crushing the spinach. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt, white pepper and/or nutmeg as necessary. Serve at once, or let it cool in the pan, and then reheat it over medium heat before serving.

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