Fettuccine with Lamb ‘Bolognese’

This is not a true ragù Bolognese, as those are made with pork and beef rather than lamb (among other differences). But because it has a similar depth and richness, American pasta-lovers tend to refer to this type of ragù using the B-word. It is achieved by braising lamb shank meat in red wine and broth with soffritto (onion, carrot and celery), a little pancetta, herbs and tomato until it falls apart and everything melds together. It's wonderful on dried pasta (especially if you spring for a really good one from Italy), and extravagantly delicious on home-made fettuccine or pappardelle.

Of course you can make it entirely ahead and simply heat it up before serving, or serve it right away. If you want to serve fewer than 6 people, set some of the sauce aside before adding the pasta, and keep it for later, storing covered in the fridge if you'll use it within a few days, or freezing, if not.

Makes enough to dress about 1 1/2 pounds dried pasta or 1 recipe fresh pasta, to serve 6 to 8.